THE ELIXER OF SLOWNESS: ACETOMODENA BALSAMIC VINEGAR
There is a saying form Modena that goes like this:
‘He who goes slowly, goes healthily and far’.
Nothing is truer for our vinegar.
It goes slowly, in the sense that in order to mature
it takes the time that it needs.
It goes healthily, because it is Mother Nature who makes it.
It goes far, because its known all over the world.
– SOCIETÀ AGRICOLA ACETOMODENA
We first were introduced to the owners of Acetomodena, the Vecchi family and their faithful Scottish-Italian national representative, Gary, in 2014. At that time, the success of our Olio Tenero Ascolana del Piceno olive oil had tipped us into the import business, and our colleague Rita in Rome was eager for us to embark on a second product of excellence. With a goal of bypassing the industrial food chain that still dominates the U.S. Italian food import market to this day, we had our eyes set on the next product of renown—balsamic from Modena, the hot plain of the Po River Valley, made by one of the handful of family producers who could count their history in Modena back for hundreds and hundreds of years.
A Brief History
First, you should know that the commercial enterprise of balsamic vinegar only spans back to the 19th century. Before curious travelers discovered this liquid gold of the Po, all production was family run, based out of the barn attics of farms, intended mostly for local consumption. The art centered around two towns – Modena and Reggio Emilia, both on the flat, sticky Po River Valley. There the hot and stifling summers allowed for extraordinarily humid conditions in the attics, providing the perfect solera climate.
Since then, there has been a lot of dishonesty in balsamic marketing in the United States. Including claims of businesses being 300 years old and balsamic being aged for 50 or 100 years. These quantitative descriptions appeal to naive American shoppers looking at numbers as a basis for quality. However, the commercial industry is young and no company has been around much before the 19th century. Additionally, there is no regulation on balsamics older than 25 years and products that make these claims are non-classified.
Producers who make claims on age rely on the basic laws of science, wherein if one drop of older balsamic remains in a barrel, over time, as the barrel is emptied and refilled, there is still a microscopic amount of liquid that dates from the start of the enterprise. Producer increase their profits, but consumers are cheated! The only true aged balsamics from Modena are the Traditonal Balsamics of Modena, DOP, regulated by a consortium that controls the production and quality of every producer who makes this product. More on that later.
Since then, there has been a lot of dishonesty in balsamic marketing in the United States. Including claims of businesses being 300 years old and balsamic being aged for 50 or 100 years. These quantitative descriptions appeal to naive American shoppers looking at numbers as a basis for quality. However, the commercial industry is young and no company has been around much before the 19th century. Additionally, there is no regulation on balsamics older than 25 years and products that make these claims are non-classified.
Producers who make claims on age rely on the basic laws of science, wherein if one drop of older balsamic remains in a barrel, over time, as the barrel is emptied and refilled, there is still a microscopic amount of liquid that dates from the start of the enterprise. Producer increase their profits, but consumers are cheated! The only true aged balsamics from Modena are the Traditonal Balsamics of Modena, DOP, regulated by a consortium that controls the production and quality of every producer who makes this product. More on that later.
The Good Mansion Difference
Producers who make claims on age rely on the basic laws of science, wherein if one drop of older balsamic remains in a barrel, over time, as the barrel is emptied and refilled, there is still a microscopic amount of liquid that dates from the start of the enterprise. Producer increase their profits, but consumers are cheated! The only true aged balsamics from Modena are the Traditonal Balsamics of Modena, DOP, regulated by a consortium that controls the production and quality of every producer who makes this product. More on that later.You may know that balsamic vinegar of Modena only permits two ingredients by law: cooked grape must and wine vinegar. What you may not know is that many so-called balsamic products seen on shelves in the US contain up to 90% wine vinegar, producing a watery body with a sharply acidic taste. Sometimes they are even enhanced with caramel coloring to provide color because it is so thin! Our balsamics from the Vecchi family and Acetomodena are completely different.
Acetomodena Goccia Oro Balsamic Vinegar IGP
First, we have Acetomodena Goccia Oro Balsamic Vinegar IGP. Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP) is an award that indicates the quality of a product is tied to the place or region where it is produced, processed, or prepared. This product, unlike most IGP balsamic that is exported to the US, contains a low percentage of wine vinegar and a very high percentage of cooked grape must. In fact it boasts 70 % from family vineyards of Trebbiano and Lambrusco! These ingredients are aged and ‘vinegarised’ for up to three years in quality wooden barrels. This results in a sweet yet delicate and balanced balsamic which, with a slight hit of acidity, renders it incredibly versatile in the kitchen.
Acetomodena Condimento Oro Supremo
Next is the Acetomodena Condimento Oro Supremo. This is Acetomodena’s proprietary condiment that contains 100% cooked grape must that is aged 6 years. The resulting product has an intense aroma and a dense, velvety texture, while maintaining a lightness and versatility. Even though this undergoes the same barrel process that traditional balsamics do, there is no classification for this period of aging in Italian law. So, it must by law be called a condiment. The gorgeous petite bottle is the perfect affordable gift for balsamic aficionados who want the taste of a traditional, aged balsamic at a more comfortable price.
Traditional Balsamic from Modena
Finally, we present Traditional Balsamic from Modena, a generation old product that for most of history was confined to family attics in the town of Modena, on the hot and humid Po River Valley plain of northern Italy. This coveted vinegar is Denominazione d’Origine Protetta (DOP). This assures that the vinegar is produced, processed, and packaged in a specific geographical zone according to tradition. Producers in the consortium use only 100% cooked grape must from Lambrusco and Trebbiano grapes.
In the case of the Vecchi farm, the grapes are harvested on the family vineyards of Acetomodena. The must enters into a 12 (Affinato style) to 25-year (Extravecchio style) solera ageing process in barrels of different woods. It moves from structural oak at in early years to perfumed mulberry and chestnut as “toppers” later on. Acetaii from the consortium taste the the developing balsamic and recommend which wood it should see next. Each vintage takes its own unique journey to Affinato or Extravecchio status. The Traditional Balsamics from Modena are sweet with a powerful intensity that will linger on your palate. They are best drizzled on aged cheeses, ice cream or berries, or dabbed on a filet. A tiny drop of this liquid gold goes a very long way, so each bottle has hundreds of experiences. This is truly liquid gold and the best of Modenese vinegar making.
Shop all of our vinegar and more, available for shipping nationwide.
In the case of the Vecchi farm, the grapes are harvested on the family vineyards of Acetomodena. The must enters into a 12 (Affinato style) to 25-year (Extravecchio style) solera ageing process in barrels of different woods. It moves from structural oak at in early years to perfumed mulberry and chestnut as “toppers” later on. Acetaii from the consortium taste the the developing balsamic and recommend which wood it should see next. Each vintage takes its own unique journey to Affinato or Extravecchio status. The Traditional Balsamics from Modena are sweet with a powerful intensity that will linger on your palate. They are best drizzled on aged cheeses, ice cream or berries, or dabbed on a filet. A tiny drop of this liquid gold goes a very long way, so each bottle has hundreds of experiences. This is truly liquid gold and the best of Modenese vinegar making.
Shop all of our vinegar and more, available for shipping nationwide.